Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Gardens
Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.
It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just above Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from several hidden city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout the city. It is too clandestine to possess an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Across the World
So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic artistic district area and over three thousand vines with views of and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Vineyards help cities stay greener and ecologically varied. They protect land from development by creating permanent, productive agricultural units inside urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," notes the president.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the rain comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast once more. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy berries from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Across the City
The other members of the group are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from about fifty vines. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."
Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a serving in the growing number of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."
"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a container of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then incorporate a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on